D2 tool steel is often used to make blanking dies, cold forming dies, stamping dies, slitters, punches, trim dies and thread rolling dies for applications when exceptional toughness is not necessary.
This new D2-type steel was gaining in popularity because of its “air hardening property, low distortion and better machining quality than the other [high carbon, high chromium steels]” . It was also reported to be, “the most universally adaptable of the…high carbon high chromium steels” .
D2 Steel – This steel This is not technically Stainless, but Tool Steel. However, it Because of this it has good rust resistance. It is much tougher than most stainless steels, but not as tough as most of the other tool steel. This steel does have excellent wear resistance.
D2 steel has a hardness in the range of 55 to 62 HRC, which makes is a very durable and high- end knife steel. D2 steel will retain its hardness up to a temperature of 425 °C (797 °F).
The D2 steel has a high wear resistance, hardness, and good toughness, which make it an excellent choice for knife makers, and if you do a little search on the market (example: go to baldehq.com) you 'll find out how cheap are the knives compared to their high quality, but it doesn't mean that the D2 is better than the ...
D2 is a happy medium between stainless and high carbon steels. It's easy to work and looks nice, but because it's air-hardened steel you can't differentially temper the blade like other High Carbon Steels. It can also be difficult to sharpen.
D2 is honorary stainless. Technically it isn't stainless, but almost. Keep it clean and dry and it will give you years of good service. I like rem oil.
D2 Steel Toughness
You cannot get hardness and toughness from the same steel, and this is the case with D2. Since it has high hardness, its toughness scores low. While there are steels with better toughness than D2, it offers enough hardness to handle light chopping without breaking.
At first: D2 is very, very poor steel for sword making. It is very hard and wear resistant, but also very brittle. You should use some spring steel such as 5160 or 9260 (excellent choice), or some carbon steel - 1050 or 1060. At second: you CAN'T forge weld D2 steel due to its high chromium content.
D2 steel is barely stain resistant at 12.00% chromium. The modified D2 that Camillus is using has the chromium upped to 12.50% which makes it a little bit more resistant.
Lots of owners of Queen's D2 blades there (including me). I think you'll find it doesn't ordinarily rust very easily, and patinas a little bit. It's often referred to as a 'non-stainless' steel, but it's just barely not stainless. For the most part, it does pretty well.
S30V is a higher-tier knife steel compared to D2. It generally has higher corrosion resistance, toughness, ease of sharpening, and edge retention. It's a really well-balanced steel, but it's more expensive. D2 is cheaper, but not as good as S30V as it rusts easier and is harder to sharpen.
Carbon steel grades with high amounts of carbon are desirable for knife making because they will give the blade the hardness and strength needed to hold up against impact and wear.
D2 steel is an air hardening, high-carbon, high-chromium tool steel. It has high wear and abrasion resistant properties. It is heat treatable and will offer a hardness in the range 55-62 HRC, and is machinable in the annealed condition. D2 steel shows little distortion on correct hardening.
D2 will take a nice edge and hold it a long time, if heat treated correctly. It can be a little difficult to sharpen. Best to not let it get dull, or any knife for that matter. A little more corrosive resistant than 1095, but not a true stainless steel.
Sometimes, though, D2 can be more brittle and can chip and break when you're doing tough activities on it like chopping wood. But that's only a sometimes problem. This sometimes problem can be caused by shoddy steel or too much pressure when sharpening the knife, which can cause microchips in the steel you can't see.
What type of steel is used on Benchmade knives? Benchmade chooses premium blade stainless steel to best suit individual knife styles and applications. 154CM, M390, N680, S30V, S90V, D2, CPM-M4 to name a few.
D2 Tool Steel is a versatile high-carbon, high-chromium, air-hardening tool steel that is characterized by a relatively high attainable hardness and numerous, large, chromium-rich alloy carbides in the microstructure.
Hardening: Heat to 1475F to 1500F (steel type depending) until the metal is just past non-magnetic. Non-magnetic is around 1425F. A propane (or MAPP gas) torch played evenly along the blade will get the job done.
Gently heating a hardened metal and allowing it to cool slowly will produce a metal that is still hard but also less brittle. This process is known as tempering.
Estimating Size Change During Heat Treat
An Uddeholm data sheet shows that when D-2 tool steel, 3.15" x 3.15" x 3.15", is austenitized at 1,870 degrees F for 30 minutes and quenched in a vacuum furnace with 2 bar nitrogen overpressure, it grows in one dimension while shrinking in the other two.
Use Mineral Oil
To prevent rust, Patterson recommends washing your knife shortly after use and oiling the blade. “Food-grade mineral oil is probably the best [oil] you can use,” he says, “many other oils will become like a resin over time and get really, really sticky. [Food-grade mineral oil] doesn't get that way.
If your knife has wood handle scales such as a Buck model 110, consider rubbing them down with a wood polish or finishing oil such as Danish or Linseed oil. Wipe off any excess oil and enjoy your knife!
Modern knife steel is very high quality material, but all metal will corrode through time. Occasionally oil the joints and springs of a pocket knife with a drop or two of oil. This will assure easier opening and closing and will prevent rust and lessen wear.