The bottom line – on a crop frame camera a 70-300mm zoom (Canon, Nikon, Sony) will get you pretty good coverage from 15 yards to 56 yards away, the 'sweet spot' for outdoor sports.
Covering a versatile 70-300mm focal length range (105-450mm equivalent on DX-format cameras), it's an excellent choice for most daylight telephoto subjects, from portraiture to wildlife, on Nikon DSLRs that have a built-in focusing motor.
A 70-300 mm lens is a medium telephoto lens often employed for taking photos of wildlife, sporting events, and astronomical subjects such as the moon, planets, and stars. It is also recommended for travel photography, street photography, and other candid occasions.
24-70mm lenses offer close focusing
The minimum focusing distance does vary from model to model, but it's generally around 15 inches (38 centimeters). In other words, you can use a 24-70mm lens to capture stunning close-up shots – of flowers, leaves, portrait details, and more.
The 70-300mm is ideal for wildlife, nature, and sports photographers who're looking for a budget zoom lens that can help improve their photography level. Since it is versatile, the Nikon 70-300mm functions well in different environments. It is a real swiss army knife for any level of photography.
It's a great lens for wildlife, especially on DX (crop sensor) Nikon bodies where it yields an equivalent focal length of 105-450mm. It is light and relatively small, which is helpful if you are panning with flying birds, or otherwise needing to hold it up for long stretches.
A 300mm lens is enough for wildlife and bird photography. With a lens of this focal length, you'll be able to capture detail from a distance, even when focusing on small subjects like songbirds. Look for a lens with a fast speed to make sure that you can capture a moving subject without blur.
The colorful bands and belts of Jupiter, as well as its four major moons, and the rings of Saturn are clearly visible in a 70mm telescope. Mars, Venus and Mercury are visible in a small scope as well, but are extremely reluctant to give up any detail because of their overwhelming brightness.
If you already have the 24-70mm 2.8, I would recommend skipping over all of the Canon 50mm primes, until you have enough saved up to jump straight to the Canon 50mm 1.2.
On top of that, many lenses of that length will not perform well in low light and you may end up with a blurry image and poor composition. At 50ft from the subject, about 8 rows back, the 70-200mm range still works. The only shots you won't get with that length are an ultra-wide of the stage and a close-up of a face.
So what are telephoto and superzoom lenses, like a 70-300mm, used for? They're best when you want to get close to a distant subject. It could be a building on the horizon or a face in a crowd. They're perfect for wildlife photography, where you can't get close to the animals you want to shoot.
Lightweight telephoto zoom
This 4x telephoto zoom lens is ideal for the budget-conscious photographer with an interest in shooting sports, wildlife or portraiture. In common with other telephoto lenses, the EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III compresses perspective and allows the photographer to restrict depth of field.
Here is an example: For a 300mm lens, divide 300 by 50 to get 6x magnification. Or divide 300 by 100 to get 3, then multiply 3 x 2 to get 6x.
As zoom lenses have a range of focal lengths, they can cover several focal lengths inside the same type. So you can have a zoom wide-angle (i.e. 10-24mm) or a telephoto zoom lens (i.e. 200-500mm). Other zoom lenses cover from wide-angle to telephoto (i.e. 16-300).
Focal lengths such as 300mm or 400mm would be a large, heavy telephoto lens for taking photos of birds or airplanes. Just remember - a small number is wide, a large number is telephoto. Two numbers together, e.g. 35-105mm, means that the lens zooms from one focal length to another.
The 24-70mm lens is hands down the most useful lens in a wedding photographers bag. It's the swiss army knife of lenses!
The 24-70 lens is a good choice for doing landscape photography, shooting portraits, macro photography, and making videos. It can be used to shoot travel photos, architecture, and weddings and also works for street and lifestyle photography.
No. DSOs fall roughly into four classes: open star clusters, globular star clusters, nebulas, and galaxies. Of those, most globular star clusters and all galaxies will look like faint smudges through your scope. But a 70-mm refractor is amply big to resolve many open star clusters into individual stars.
Viewing Saturn's Rings
The rings of Saturn should be visible in even the smallest telescope at 25x. A good 3-inch scope at 50x can show them as a separate structure detached on all sides from the ball of the planet.
To look at planets like Jupiter and Saturn, you will need a magnification of about 180; with that you should be able to see the planets and their moons. If you want to look at the planet alone with higher resolution, you will need a magnification of about 380.
The best focal length depends on your subjects and how close you can get to them. It's hard to get close to most wild subjects, so wildlife photographers generally use long lenses: at least 300mm for an APS-C DSLR, or 400mm for a full-frame DSLR or 35mm SLR.
In wildlife photography, the 400mm is the king at teaching this concept. You will have to zoom with your feet to get the image size you desire often shooting with the 400mm. Watching your subject to learn what to do and not do in approaching a critter is a vital lesson that you will learn with this lens!